History of Cheongsam

The Cheongsam Dress (qipao) is the native dress of the Manchu nationality - one of the 56 nationalities in China. The Manchurians lived in north-eastern China and their history traces back almost 3,000 years.

In the 16th century, Nurhachi, a tribal cheif who eventually became known as a Manchu hero, conquered most of China. He then declared himself Great Khan, and called his empre the Great Qing (this period of rule was later termed as the Qing Dynasty by historians).

During his reign, Nurhachi established an Eight Banner system for military, political and production purposes. Under this fundamental social system, the Manchurian subjects were divided into eight groups, which were identified by diffrent coloured banners (qi). During military processions, for example, the people would put on vests according to the colour of their qi. From then on, the Manchurians earned themselves the name (qi ren) or "banner people," and their garments were called (qi pao) or "the banner people's gown."

Through the centuries, qipao has undergone several changes. In the Ming Dynasty (1368 - 1644 ), the qi pao took the form of a tight close-fitting style for both men and women. The Qing Dynasty (1644 - 1911) saw the use of buttons on qi pao. By the 17th century, the qi pao had right front openings - a representation of the ruling imperial dignity of the Manchurians, because right was regarded as superior to left. The qi pao's tube-like straightness was a symbol of dignified authority, solemnity and magnificence.

Gaining quick popularity in China, the qi pao soon became the traditional costume for Chinese women. The Cantonese called the qi pao "cheongsam," a term literally meaning "long dress."

Cheongsam Today

Like a magical flower with beauty that never fades, the traditional Chinese cheongsam continues to hold great appeal to women eastern or western (see picture) till this day. The high-necked, closed-collar cheongsam, with a loose chest and fitting waist, is one of the most versatile costumes in the world. It can be long or short, some with full, medium, short or even no sleeves at all - to suit different occasions, weather and individual tastes. What serves as a worthy testament to the beauty of the cheongsam is, however, it does not require the wearer to pep up the look with accessories like scarves and belts. Designed to show off the natural softness of the female form, it also creates the illusion of slender legs. The overall picture: practical, yet sexy.

Following Madonna's appearance at the 1995 Grammy Awards in a flaming-red cheongsam, New York Barney's started hawking the garment. Suddenly, everyone from Parisan dressmaker Jean Paul Gaultier to German designer Jil Sander started sending their models down the runway in chinois chic. Little wonder, then, we ask, what are we missing out on here?

The truth is, the once traditional Chinese dress is now a hot trend around the world, endorsed by many celebrities. You can even see it in the latest Spider-man movie, worn by the character "Mary Jane Watson," played by Kirsten Dunst (see screen shots).

How to Choose Cheongsam

The cheongsam is normally deisgned to flatter the feminine body. But not everyone has the figure of supermodels. How then should we choose a cheongsam that would accentuate our assets and hide our fatal flaws? The following guidelines may help you make the right choice.

Go for cheongsams that are one size larger than your actual self, so as to allow room for movement and comfort. Too tight-fitting a cheongsam may result in the fabric being strained or torn.
For a close fit, bust waist and hip measurements of the cheongsam should be 6-7cm, 3-4cm larger than your actual size. Close-fitting cheongsams are generally recommended only for those with exceptional figures.
For a semi-loose or standard fit - suitable for almost everyone - the measurements should be 7-8cm, 4-5cm larger than your actual size.
For a loose fit, the measurements should be 8-9cm, 5-6cm and 4-5cm larger than your actual size.
The slits of the cheongsam should be preferably be niether too high nor too low, otherwise the fabric may be strained when you sit or walk.

Care of Cheongsam

Suffer not the heartache of damaging your beautiful precious cheongsam. Take the proper steps to maintain it. Here are a few handy tips on how to protect your cheongsam from wear and tear.

When Not Wearing

- Hang your cheongsam using a wide hanger. Make sure that the shoulders are nicely propped up.

- Remember to place some mothballs in your wardrobe before keeping your cheongsam. Avoid using camphor balls, as they cause light coloured silk to turn yellowish.

Washing & Ironing

- Cheongsams made of synthetic fibre - Pre-rinse with water (temperature below 40 degree Celsius) and hand-wash with mild detergent. Gently wring and hang dry in a cool, well-ventilated place, away from the sun. Ironing temperature should not be too high (under 70 degrees Celsius for fabrics containing chloro-fibre, and under 100 degrees Celsius for fabrics containing acrylic fibre), especially if fabric is bright-coloured. Keep iron moving constantly over the apparel. Put away your cheongsam only when it's dried and cooled.

- Cheongsams made of silk - Hand-wash with a detergent that is not alkaline, i.e. a neutral detergent. Dry it in a cool place. Never expose it to the sun. Ironing temperature may be slightly high. Dont' spray water on the silk when ironing, lest it leaves a mark on the fabric.

- Cheongsams made of cotton - After hand-washing it with mild detergent, rinse it in plain water. Don't scrub it forcefully when washing. Avoid prolonged exposure to the sun. Ironing temperature should not be high.

- Cheongsams made of wool - Gently hand-wash it in lukewarm water with a neutral detergent. Do not soak it in hot water. Dry it in a well-ventilated place.